CAPITAL HUMANE SOCIETY
2320
The Fearful Dog
Copyright Denver Dumb Friends League and
Humane Society of the
Dogs
may display a variety of behaviors when they’re afraid. A fearful dog will
display certain body postures, including lowering his head, flattening his ears
back against his head, and tucking his tail between his legs. He may also pant,
salivate, tremble and/or pace. A frightened dog may try to escape, may show
submissive behaviors (avoidance of eye contact, submissive urinating, rolling
over to expose his belly), or he may freeze and remain immobile. Some dogs will
bark and/or growl at the object that is causing their fear. In extreme cases of
fearfulness a dog may be destructive (out of general anxiety or in an attempt
to escape), or he may lose control of his bladder or bowels and, therefore,
house soil.
Causes
Of Fearful Behavior
Determining
why your dog is fearful isn’t always essential to treating the fearful
behavior, although the reason for his fear will dictate the relative success of
the treatment. A dog that is genetically predisposed to general fearfulness, or
a dog that was improperly socialized during a critical stage in his development,
will probably not respond as well to treatment as a dog that has developed a
specific fear in response to a specific experience. It’s essential, however, to
first rule out any medical causes for your dog’s fearful behavior. Your first
step should be to take your dog to your veterinarian for a thorough medical
evaluation.
What
You Can Do
Most
fears won’t go away by themselves, and if left untreated, may get worse. Some
fears, when treated, will decrease in intensity or frequency but may not
disappear entirely. Once medical reasons have been ruled out, the first step in
dealing with your dog’s fearful behavior is to identify what triggers his fear.
If he is afraid of startling noises see our handout: “Helping Your Dog Overcome The Fear Of Thunder And Other Startling Noises.”
If he is afraid of being left alone, see our handout: “Separation Anxiety.” Most fears can be treated using
desensitization and counter conditioning techniques, which require a lot of
time and patience. You may need help from a professional animal behavior
specialist to help you with these techniques (see our handout: “When The Behavior Helpline Can’t Help”).
Desensitization
·
Begin by exposing your dog to a very low
level or small amount of whatever it is that’s causing his fear. For example,
if he is afraid of bicycles, start with a bicycle placed at a distance of 100
feet from your dog.
·
Reward him for calm, non-fearful
behavior in the presence of the bicycle. Gradually move the bicycle closer to
him. As long as your dog remains relaxed, reward him with treats and praise. If
at any point he becomes anxious, move the bicycle further away and proceed at a
slower pace.
·
When your dog can remain relaxed in the
presence of a stationary bicycle, move the bicycle 100 feet away again, but
have someone ride it slowly by him. Again, gradually increase the proximity of the
slowly moving bicycle, rewarding your dog for remaining calm and relaxed.
Repeat this procedure as many times as necessary, gradually increasing the
speed of the moving bicycle.
·
This process may take several days,
weeks or even months. You must proceed at a slow enough pace that your dog
never becomes fearful during the desensitization process.
Counter
Conditioning
Counter
conditioning works best when used along with desensitization and involves
pairing the fear stimulus with an activity or behavior incompatible with the
fear behavior.
! Using the desensitization technique
example described previously, while your dog is exposed to the bicycle, ask him
to perform some obedience exercises, such as “sit” and “down.” Reward him for obeying
and continue to have him obey commands as the bicycle is moved closer to him.
! If your dog doesn’t know any commands,
teach him a few using treats and praise. Don’t ever use punishment, collar
corrections or scolding to teach him the commands, as the point of counter conditioning
is for him to associate pleasant things with the thing that frightens him.
Realistic
Expectations
Some
of the things that frighten dogs can be difficult to reproduce and/or control.
For example, if your dog is afraid of thunderstorms, he may be responding to
other things that occur during the storm, such as smells, barometric pressure
changes and/or changes in the light. During the desensitization process it’s
impossible for you to reproduce all of these factors. If your dog is afraid of
men, you may work at desensitizing him, but if an adult man lives in your
household and your dog is constantly exposed to him, this can disrupt the
gradual process of desensitization.
When
To Get Help
Because
desensitization and counter conditioning can be difficult to do, and because
behavior problems may increase if these techniques are done incorrectly, you
may want to get professional, in home help from an animal behavior specialist
(see our handout: “When The Behavior
Helpline Can’t Help”). It’s important to keep in mind that a fearful dog
that feels trapped or is pushed too far may
become
aggressive. Some dogs will respond aggressively to whatever it is that
frightens them (see our handout: “Understanding
Aggression In Dogs”). If your dog displays any aggressive behavior, such as
growling, snarling, snapping or baring his teeth, stop all behavior
modification procedures and seek professional help from an animal behavior
specialist as soon as possible.
Consult
With Your Veterinarian
Medication
may be available that can help your dog feel less anxious for short time
periods. Your veterinarian is the only person who is licensed and qualified to
prescribe medication for your dog. Don’t attempt to give your dog any
over-the-counter or prescription medication without consulting with your veterinarian.
Animals don’t respond to drugs the same way people do, and a medication that
may be safe for humans could be fatal to your dog. Drug therapy alone won’t
reduce fears and phobias permanently. In extreme cases, behavior modification
and medication used together may be the best approach.
What
Not To Do
·
Don’t punish your dog for being afraid.
Punishment will only make him more fearful.
·
Don’t try to force your dog to experience
the object or situation that is causing him to be afraid. For example, if he is
afraid of bicycles and you force him to stand in place while bicycles whiz by,
he’ll probably become more fearful, rather than less fearful of bicycles.
·
Never punish your dog after the fact for
destruction or house soiling caused by anxiety or fear. Animals don’t
understand punishment after the fact, even if it’s only seconds later. This
kind of destruction or house soiling is the result of panic, not misbehavior.
Punishment will do more harm than good.