CAPITAL HUMANE SOCIETY
2320 Park Blvd.
Crate Training Your Dog
Copyright Denver Dumb Friends League and
Humane Society of the
Crate
training your dog may take some time and effort, but can be useful in a variety
of situations. If you have a new dog or puppy, you can use the crate to limit
his access to the house until he learns all the house rules – like what he can
and can’t chew on and where he can and can’t eliminate. A crate is also a safe
way of transporting your dog in the car, as well as a way of taking him places
where he may not be welcome to run freely. If you properly train your dog to
use the crate, he’ll think of it as his safe place and will be happy to spend
time there when needed.
Selecting
A Crate
Crates
may be plastic (often called “flight kennels”) or collapsible, metal pens. They
come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores. Your
dog’s crate should be just large enough for him to stand up and turn around in.
The
Crate Training Process
Crate
training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog’s age, temperament and
past experiences. It’s important to keep two things in mind while crate
training. The crate should always be associated with something pleasant, and
training should take place in a series of small steps - don’t go too fast.
Step
1: Introducing Your Dog To The Crate
·
Put the crate in an area of your house
where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket
or towel in the crate. Bring your dog over to the crate and talk to him in a
happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is securely fastened opened so it
won’t hit your dog and frighten him.
·
To encourage your dog to enter the
crate, drop some small food treats near it, then just inside the door, and
finally, all the way inside the crate. If he refuses to go all the way in at
first, that’s okay – don’t force him to enter. Continue tossing treats into the
crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the
food. If he isn’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the
crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days.
Step
2: Feeding Your Dog His Meals In The Crate
·
After introducing your dog to the crate,
begin feeding him his regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant
association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you
begin Step 2, put the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If your
dog is still reluctant to enter the crate, put the dish only as far inside as
he will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed him,
place the dish a little further back in the crate.
·
Once your dog is standing comfortably in
the crate to eat his meal, you can close the door while he’s eating. At first,
open the door as soon as he finishes his meal. With each successive feeding,
leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until he’s staying in the crate for
ten minutes or so after eating. If he begins to whine to be let out, you may
have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving him in the
crate for a shorter time period. If he does whine or cry in the crate, it’s
imperative that you not let him out until he stops. Otherwise, he’ll learn that
the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so he’ll keep doing it.
Step
3: Conditioning Your Dog To The Crate For Longer Time Periods
·
After your dog is eating his regular
meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine him there
for short time periods while you’re home. Call him over to the crate and give
him a treat. Give him a command to enter such as, “kennel up.” Encourage him by
pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog
enters the crate, praise him, give him the treat and close the door. Sit
quietly near the crate for five to ten minutes and then go into another room
for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time, then let him out
of the crate. Repeat this process several times a day. With each repetition,
gradually increase the length of time you leave him in the crate and the length
of time you’re out of his sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate
for about 30 minutes with you out of sight the majority of the time, you can
begin leaving him crated when you’re gone for short time periods and/or letting
him sleep there at night. This may take several days or several weeks.
Step
4:
Part
A/Crating Your Dog When Left Alone
After
your dog is spending about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or
afraid, you can begin leaving him crated for short periods when you leave the
house. Put him in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might
also want to leave him with a few safe toys in the crate (see our handout: “Dog Toys and How to Use Them”). You’ll
want to vary at what point in your “getting ready to leave” routine you put
your dog in the crate. Although he shouldn’t be crated for a long time before
you leave, you can crate him anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving.
Don’t make your departures emotional and prolonged, but matter-of-fact. Praise
your dog briefly, give him a treat for entering the crate and then leave
quietly. When you return home, don’t reward your dog for excited behavior by
responding to him in an excited, enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low key.
Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you’re home
so he doesn’t associate crating with being left alone.
Part
B/Crating Your Dog At Night
Put
your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may
be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway,
especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate
during the night, and you’ll want to be able to hear your puppy when he whines
to be let outside. Older dogs, too, should initially be kept nearby so that
crating doesn’t become associated with social isolation. Once your dog is
sleeping comfortably through the night with his crate near you, you can begin
to gradually move it to the location you prefer.
Potential
Problems
·
Too Much Time In The
Crate
A
crate isn’t a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog can feel trapped
and frustrated. For example, if your dog is crated all day while you’re at work
and then crated again all night, he’s spending too much time in too small a
space. Other arrangements should be made to accommodate his physical and
emotional needs. Also remember that puppies under six months of age shouldn’t
stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a time. They can’t control
their bladders and bowels for longer periods.
·
Whining
If
your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to
decide whether he’s whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to
be let outside to eliminate. If you followed the training procedures outlined
above, your dog hasn’t been rewarded for whining in the past by being released
from his crate. Try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you,
he’ll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will
only make things worse. If the whining continues after you’ve ignored him for
several minutes, use the phrase he associates with going outside to eliminate.
If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip
with a purpose, not play time. If you’re convinced that your dog doesn’t need
to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Don’t give
in, otherwise you’ll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he
wants. If you’ve progressed gradually through the training steps and haven’t
done too much too fast, you’ll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the
problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over
again.
·
Separation Anxiety
Attempting
to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won’t solve the problem. A
crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but he may injure himself in
an attempt to escape from the crate. Separation anxiety problems can only be
resolved with counter-conditioning and desensitization procedures. You may want
to consult a professional animal behaviorist for help (see our handout: “Separation Anxiety”).